课程成果丨D&I与LVMH/DIOR可持续时尚设计

引言

与奢侈品品牌的合作起源于2019年的本科大三UPCYCLING课程，延续至今是第三个阶段的联合研究课题。在本届的工业设计系大三下专业设计4的课堂上，师生将可持续设计与时尚领域的服务实践相融合，共同打造未来的绿色时尚生活与产品。

课题要求同学们调研奢侈品牌行业背景，梳理时尚行业的可持续设计机会点，研究高端奢侈品包装和快闪活动产业的工作流程，通过绘制系统蓝图等方式去寻找其中的痛点和问题，提出洞见性的设计概念。运用大学本科专业知识和能力，从材料、服务设计、环境设计、生态设计等不同方向切入，对现有奢侈品的产品设计系统及服务模式进行可持续设计相关的思考和升级。

我们提出了基于“销毁品升级再造”研究方向的满意成果，同时获得了合作方的高度认可。以下是本次课程的相关成果汇报，同时，我们将在9月份举行课程成果展览，期待与社会各界探讨交流时尚的可持续设计。

课题关键词：循环经济、升级再造、可持续时尚

课程教师：刘震元 莫娇 赵世笺 Saverio Silli
校外导师： Simon Collins 王继敏
课程助教：高熙哲 王丹

01

气筑花园 Auradisus

气筑花园-Auradisus来自拉丁文气-Aura和花园-Paradisus。这个装置借由人流行走的空气驱动气流，经计算可得，理想状态下，常人行走带动的气流可以驱使空气以 0.125 m/s 至 0.25 m/通过装置进行定向流动。而在快闪店周期内，利用我们的可持续装置可以节约7.2% 的空调能源消耗，且降温过程中不产生任何温室气体。

Auradisus, derived from the Latin Aura and Paradisus, is an installation where the air flow is driven by the air that a person walks on, which is calculated to drive the air through the installation at 0.125 m/s to 0.25 m/s in an ideal situation. Our sustainable installation saves 7.2% of the energy used for air conditioning during the flashmob cycle, and produces no greenhouse gases during the cooling process.

小组成员：高熙哲、刘奕扬

浪漫解构  Deconstructing Romance

链接Dior迪奥与各工厂的智能平台，只需选择构型、调节参数便可设计风格化的HPP家具，并利用数字算法确保可以利用库存板材来生产。旨在加强前后HPP之间的连接，通过解构化像素风的平台设计风格，探索废弃板材再利用的可能性。

The intelligent platform links Dior with various factories, allowing for the design of stylized HPP furniture by simply selecting configurations and adjusting parameters. It utilizes digital algorithms to ensure the utilization of inventory board materials for production. The platform aims to strengthen the connection between the pre- and post-HPP phases by exploring the possibilities of deconstructing pixel-based design styles and reusing discarded board materials. 

小组成员：周志恒、郭倩

结晶之窗 Crystal Vista

对Dior迪奥而言，自然不仅是灵感缪斯，更是核心焦点，而结晶则讲述着“成于自然，归于自然”的可持续理念。我们希望探索结晶材料在HPP中的落地可能，为迪奥带来可持续材料上的新灵感。我们从材料实验出发，分别从“结晶方式”、“结晶材料”、“结晶过程”三个维度做了控制变量实验，以便找到最符合效果的结晶成果。

For Dior, nature is not only a muse, but also a central focus. Crystallization tells the sustainable concept of "made in nature, returned to nature". We wanted to explore the possibilities of crystalline materials in HPP and bring new inspiration to Dior on sustainable materials. We started from material experiments and did controlled variable experiments in three dimensions: "crystallization method", "crystallization material" and "crystallization process", in order to find the most effective crystallization results. 

小组成员：王丹、谭禹辰

花影幽径 Auradisus

基于FDM智能增材制造，将回收的美妆产品转化为香水包装与HPP展柜体，借助参数化处理可适应各种HPP规格；提取Dior迪奥花园的经典花卉元素，通过对结构再设计将FDM原本的打印支撑问题转化为具有辨识度的精致纹样，把优雅与美学赋予可回收材料，打造出花影荡漾，曲径通幽的法式花园沉浸体验。

Based on FDM intelligent additive manufacturing, the recycled fragrance products are converted into perfume packaging and HPP display cabinets, which can adapt to various HPP specifications with the help of parametric processing; Extracting the classic floral elements of Dior's garden, the original printing support problem of FDM is transformed into a recognizable and delicate pattern through structural redesign, and the elegance and aesthetics are given to recyclable materials, creating a French garden immersion experience with flowers and shadows and winding paths.

小组成员：郑青云、陈罗千绘

02

千花之海 Eternal Blooms

在探究了报废产品的回收流程后，我们希望能保留香水瓶，不让它进入碾碎的环节，直接对香水瓶身进行处理完成再制造和再利用。联系到Miss Dior迪奥小姐香水系列的核心精髓：花，传递美丽与快乐，我们想要利用废旧的香水瓶再造成千花之海，具体的设计中包含了两个部分，一是如何将玻璃瓶变形为花，二是如何将花变成花海。

After exploring the recycling process of end-of-life products, we hope to keep the perfume bottle, prevent it from entering the crushing process, and directly process the perfume bottle to complete remaking and reuse. Relating to the core concept of Miss Dior: flowers and its concept: to inherit the eternal beauty, we want to use these perfume bottles to recreate a flower sea. Our design includes two parts: how to transform glass bottles into flowers and how to transform flowers into flower sea.

小组成员：高祎宁、吴淑婷

流沙的时间 Time of sand

流沙的时间Time of sand 以废旧的Dior迪奥香水瓶为来源，构建一个完整的玻璃回收循环系统。循环分为四个章节：以沙主题互动展览启动，由再造玻璃礼品敏化，而后设置回收箱持续回收香水瓶玻璃，为后续的玻璃沙材料再利用提供持续的材料来源。

 Time of Sand harnesses the discarded perfume bottles from Dior to establish a comprehensive glass recycling cycle. This cycle comprises four chapters: commencing with a captivating sand-themed interactive exhibition, followed by the sensitization through recycled glass gifts, and sustained by the continuous collection of perfume bottle glass through recycling bins placed in stores. This ensures an uninterrupted supply of materials for the exploration and utilization of glass sand. 

小组成员：王心怡、黄卉怡

重塑 Replascent

在Dior迪奥的可持续设计中，我们以材料创新的方式利用化妆品废料中的HDPE材料回收再造了全新的DIOR墨镜款式。这一过程中，我们对材料进行了多次回收实验，并最终确定采用了手动拉丝揉制的方法，旨在最大限度地利用回收材料的特性，并在不添加额外色素的情况下赋予其独特而美丽的纹理。

For Dior's sustainable design, we took a materially innovative approach to recycling HDPE from cosmetic waste to create a new style of DIOR sunglasses. This process involved several experiments with the recycled material, culminating in a hand-drawn and kneaded method designed to maximise the properties of the recycled material and give it a unique and beautiful texture without the addition of additional colouring. 

小组成员：汪淼、李心瑜

玻璃“砂”漏 Glass reglazing

我们组聚焦于玻璃瓶回收设计，由于品牌自身、消费者端都有大量空瓶有待被回收，而目前的包装采用粉碎焚烧或填埋的方式，并没有被有效回收。因此，我们提出了新的回收链路，用更低成本的店内小型粉碎分拣装置，完成玻璃收集。

Our group focuses on the design of glass bottle recycling, because the brand itself and consumers have a large number of empty bottles to be recycled, and the current packaging is crushed and incinerated or landfilled, and it is not effectively recycled. Therefore, we proposed a new recycling link to complete glass collection with a smaller in-store shredding and sorting device at a lower cost.

小组成员：程诺、彭月儿

03

导师寄语

第三届可持续时尚设计的课题中，我们把研究问题，设计方法和成果表达做了更加精准的定义，目的是为了能够产出有说服力的创新方案，以便与合作方共同推进可持续设计的落地。在课题开始前先由Paola老师带领PSSD的研究生对现有系统做了调研，给出问题陈述，并结合SDO工具提出设计机会。大三学生基于研究生的调研成果，直接进入设计研究，结合对材料加工回收方法耗能等学习，运用碳足迹计算等方法给出量化的数据以论证各项创新的价值。同时强调对数据的抓取、使用和评估也基于大三下课程要求积极拥抱技术前沿和趋势，为复杂问题中寻找突破口。项目推进过程中，我们邀请了时尚和可持续领域的专家为学生和课程做的数十次讲座，从个人创业经历到案例分享还有具体的回收方法到再使用程序，不仅为学生推进设计起到帮助，更是建立了时尚再造的设计产学生态圈，让学生面向现实世界，为企业解决问题而设计提供有用的资源。

——莫娇

工业设计专业大三下的人才培养围绕“为真实世界的复杂问题而设计”这一核心主题，也是设计专业教育支撑创新人才培养的进阶环节。因此，教学设计时注重以产教融合的前沿课题为抓手，对多元教学环节进行整合，包括专业设计4、设计技术4在内的课程教学、专业实践4的实践教学、以及工厂参访、专家访谈、讲座交流、设计路演、展览发表等社会实践活动。

——刘震元

销毁品升级再造是我们今年与品牌合作探索的主题，我们将循环的设计思维始终贯彻于整个课程，从碳排放的计算到产品供应链的升级机会点抓取与梳理，再到具体的设计方案以及落地，每一个环节都遵循了可持续发展的准则，并从创意新颖的角度来提升销毁品升级再造成果的质量。纵观时尚业，无论是从同济大学可持续时尚的案例，还是到各大NGO、NPO组织蓬勃发展的趋势，我们有理由相信更环保的原材料、更透明的生产链、更系统的循环消费模式能促进我国以及全球时尚朝着更科学、更绿色、更健康的方向大步发展。

——赵世笺

The design mission that Dior presented to our students was an amazing opportunity to work on a crucial challenge for the future of industry and society: how to achieve full production sustainability while remaining faithful to the value of a luxury brand? Our students worked on the problem with a practical hands-on approach which led them to experiment with new and innovative materials or to rethink the way common materials are used today. Their proposals are not just sketches on paper but real “ingredients lists” to rethink production with a “sustainable-by-design” approach.

——Saverio Silli